Chawton – an autumn day in the English countryside

The thrilling adventures of last weekend were followed by a relatively calm week of classes. To finish off the week, however, my Jane Austen class rose early this morning to take a lovely day trip out into the country, visiting Chawton House Library and the Jane Austen’s House Museum – about an hour south-west of London.

If any of you are Janeites (yes, that is a real thing), you will recognized these two places as the beautiful country homes of Jane’s brother, Edward Knight, and Jane herself.

We started our day at what is now called Chawton House Library – former estate of the Knight family.

Chawton House Library

Edward – the third Austen son – became heir to the estate following his adoption into the previously childless Knight family. Although I couldn’t take pictures inside, I assure you that the house has been stunningly preserved. This house, where Jane herself would have dined and danced many a night with her brother and his family, is still used for events such as lectures, balls, and holiday celebrations. Most notable, however, is the library. It is a collection of writings done by women of Austen’s era. The thinking was, if Jane Austen was busily writing away at this time, there must have been other women as well. The library is now a treasury of the works of those women writers who were not as fortunate as Austen. It was simply not a time when women writers were well respected for their talents and efforts – even Austen’s first book, Sense and Sensibility (celebrating its bicentennial) was first published as, “By A Woman.” I will leave it up to you how much should be read into this statement.

Thinking Literary Thoughts

Literary seriousness aside, we found plenty of time to frolic and play around the buildings and in the gardens – or course!

Staring in wonderment…

And all that frolic, surely, would make one hungry. Out in the country in the autumn, it seems that the perfect thing to wander across at this point would be a box of freshly picked apples… Oh wait! We did! For just a donation, paid very generously by my professor, we each ate an apple, and took one for the road. I also found the biggest apple I have ever seen.

We then visited the little Church next to the estate, where Jane’s mother and sister are buried. Incidentally, both named Cassandra.

Grave Site of Cassandra and Cassandra Elizabeth Austen

Shire Horse

We then continued to frolic, and came across the rescued shire horses that now call Chawton House home.

Finally meandering down the road, we made our way to Cassandra’s Cup, a little tea room, for lunch. I know, the name is hopelessly cheesy, but so was the cheese melted on my friends delicious ham and cheese sandwich! Okay, okay, now that I am done being horribly cheesy, I will tell you that, honestly, it was adorable, and the food was great. Yes, if you are wondering, it was also quite girly – but for a class that only girls signed up for (I can’t imagine why…), it was perfect. If you are a manly-man wanting to visit Chawton, no fear, there is a pub just down the road.

Tea cups descending from the heavens?

But if you are a tea fanatic like me, you probably would have heard the Hallelujah Chorus as you walked in.

They serve many lunch options from warm sandwiches, to jacket (baked) potatoes, to cream and afternoon teas. On cold days, however, I have picked up a habit of ordering the soup of the day, here in England – inexpensive, warm, and satisfying.

Momma cup, baby cup

Today’s seasonal feature was Apple (surprise!) and Parsnip soup. Thick, rooty, and slightly sweet. Along with my ever faithful companion – a pot of Earl Grey – it was just what I was craving for an autumn afternoon lunch in the country.

Then we made our way to the home of the woman herself – Jane Austen’s House Museum!

Jane’s Cottage

Jane, her mother, and her sister moved here – part of Edward’s estate – to live closer to their son and brother. They lived here from 1809 to 1817, the latter years of Jane’s life. I am once again astounded at the accessibility of history here in England – how easy it is to find the footsteps of some of the most important figures in the literary tradition.

The cottage, much like Chawton House Library, is very well preserved – showing much energy and dedication to the preservation of history. It is home to a collection of the family’s furniture, jewelry, letters, books, and even some locks of hair (kind of creepy, but if you read Austen, not so uncommon for her time). And for movie fans, if you look closely enough you will even find costumes, screen plays, Polaroids, and memorabilia from many popular Austen film adaptations.

Dining room with period china and Marianne costume worn by Kate Winslet

Jane’s Bedroom – shared with sister Cassandra

The very cozy kitchen

I still can’t believe that I was in Jane Austen’s house! As an aspiring writer, the echos of tradition are just incredible in Chawton. And for anyone else interested in English countryside living, it receives my highest recommendation.

Just another house in Chawton

You will be treated to both impressive and adorable country homes – as Jane’s cottage is only one of many. Taking a stroll up the street will treat you with plenty of brick, thatch, and even some peeks into quaint private gardens.

The area is particularly charming on a breezy, autumn day – and keep an eye out for freshly picked apples!