Yogyakarta: Take One

This past week, I spent a much needed weekend-away in the city of Yogyakarta (pronounced “Jogyakarta”). Located in Central Java, Yogyakarta is the cultural capital of the island. According to Lonely Planet, “If Jakarta is Java’s financial and industrial powerhouse, Yogyakarta is its soul.”

My dear friend Mona (my host and tour guide) and me at Malioboro Street – a main attraction for tourists who want to do a little shopping and maybe take a ride in a horse drawn cart.

Yogyakarta is home to unfathomable depths of Javanese culture, and on my first visit I feel like I barely put my toes in the water. But even with just two nights to spare, the cultural richness of the area – which is still headed by a sultan – was immediately apparent. Although Yogyakarta is now home to many lively, modern restaurants and attractions (thanks in part to a large student population), the veins of the city’s history run deep. In short, this past weekend was a time to relax and calm my nerves over a Starbucks coffee, but also to get a little taste of Java’s vast cultural heritage – a combination that is perhaps best found in the city of Yogyakarta.

A trendy little back street – home to some pretty neat art-shops. Here you can see this modern wall mural making a nod to the past – the figure to the left is from traditional puppetry called “Wayang”

I hope you enjoy these first snapshots of my Javanese experience in Yogyakarta!

Taman Sari (Spirit Garden)

Also known in Dutch as “Waterkasteel” (or Water Castle), this palatial complex of pools, waterways, and hidden rooms was built between 1758 and 1765 as a pleasure park for the Sultan. Although much of it is now destroyed or in ruins (the result of war and an 1865 earth quake), the bathing pools have been restored. The ornate stonework that remains is nothing short of breathtaking.

My gracious tour guides – all students at a local university.

The stone work was amazing!

It’s said that the Sultan would choose his women while watching them bathe in these pools.

Here you can see a woman making batik fabric along side some examples of traditional Wayang shadow puppets (on the table). Both are traditional arts of Java and hold deep cultural and historical significance.

Here is a Wayang puppet in progress. Made out of water buffalo hide, this puppet will later be painted to portray a certain character in the Wayang story-line.

The sign reads “Watch Your Head” – these buildings were not made for tall people.

Taman Sari has a series of hidden passages that lead to places like this. Not sure what it is for, but it looked pretty cool!

 

Some of the ruins.

Kraton (The Sultan’s Palace)

Inside the Kraton

The Sultan’s Palace is located within what is essentially a walled city that currently houses around 25,000 people, some of whom still work for the Sultan himself.

Part of the sultanate’s family tree – in traditional Javanese writing.

Traditional Javanese culture has a concept that power emanates from the center. For this reason, the Kraton’s innermost buildings are where the Sultan still resides – his concentrated power radiating to the rest of the Kraton and, indeed, to the rest of the island of Java. This part of the Kraton was constructed between 1755 and 1756 and is a very impressive example of traditional Javanese palace architecture. In the 1920’s, however, various stylistic touches were added that clearly show European influence.

It’s Javanese, it’s European, it might even be a little bit Chinese…but whatever it is, it represents the myriad influences that have passed through this island.

I wouldn’t mind being invited for dinner here…although I probably wouldn’t stop staring at the ceiling.

Traditional Wayang shadow puppets.

We just missed the performance – another reason to go back!

 

 

 

 

 

 

I look forward to going back to Yogyakarta, hopefully soon! There is so much I haven’t seen yet, and you can be sure that I will share it with you when I do!

We couldn’t resist a ride in a “dokar” – or horse drawn cart. Special thanks to Mona for showing me around! Vielen Dank!!!