Journey to Flores: New Turf

Indonesia is made up of thousands of islands. On those islands, more than 700 languages are being spoken among some 300 distinct, native ethnic groups.

It’s hard to keep that in mind while strolling the land-locked rice paddies in my Javanese village

It wasn’t hard to imagine while soaring at cruising altitude over island after island – large and uninhabitably small – between Java and Flores.

The island of Flores is located in eastern Indonesia and is a budding tourist destination. It has everything the “off-the-beaten-track” traveler is looking for: breath-taking mountains, deserted beaches, traditional villages, and amazing wildlife. Ever been asked if you prefer mountains or the beach? Well, in Flores you don’t have to choose – it’s all right there.

A beauty-seeker’s paradise.

Flores also offers a different take on Indonesia. Coming from Java, I immediately noticed two things: crucifixes
and empty roads. The people of Flores are predominantly Catholic, and there are a lot fewer of them. During our school vacation I was looking for something different and something adventurous, and I found that and more in Flores.

In fact, Flores was an absolute dream. I loved being there and my thoughts have strayed to going back ever since I left. I could never put everything into one blog post (or into 20), but I’ve boiled the highlights down into two parts “Turf” and “Surf.”

Let’s start on land…

Kelimutu National Park

Mount Kelimutu, located near the sleepy town of Moni, is famous for its tri-colored lakes. Formed in three volcanic craters, the lakes are remarkable for the fact that, despite sharing the same volcanic peak, they seem to change color independently of one another. The change is thought to be the effect of chemical reactions due to the interaction of volcanic gasses and minerals contained in the waters.

My favorite lake was the one that looked like someone dumped a giant can of blue paint in it. Apparently it got the memo that pastels are in this season.

Local legends assign a more mystical role to the lakes. The three are named Tiwu Ata Bupu (Lake of Old People), Tiwu Ko’o Fai Nuwa Muri (Lake of Young Men and Maidens) and Tiwu Ata Polo (Betwitched or Enchanted Lake), and are believed to be repositories of the souls of the dead.

Two of the lakes are separated by a narrow wall of rock.

The third lake sits deep within it’s crater.

Whether chemical or spiritual, watching the sun rise over the lakes while sipping a ginger coffee was nothing short of entrancing.

Sun hitting the rocky wall of one of the lakes.

Traditional Villages

Bena Village

Flores is dotted with traditional villages inhabited by members of the island’s many native ethnic groups. While much of Indonesia is modernizing and globalizing at an increasingly rapid pace, these villages have been preserved in an effort to honor the history and culture native to the peoples of Flores. It’s a rare treat to see these homes and step back in time.

Each region has its own style, reflected in the construction of their houses as well as the motifs found on their traditionally woven textiles.

We visited the village of Bena, near Bajawa in the district of Ngada. While a group of men worked on the construction of a new home, many of the women sat weaving, chewing betel nut, and selling textiles from their porches.

To be honest, it is a bit of a strange feeling walking into people’s lives uninvited. As we started to speak with some of the women, however, they were eager to tell us about their lives and craft. One girl proudly explained that she started weaving in elementary school. An older women showed us how to properly peel and prepare a betel nut. Speaking the language went a long way, and I definitely recommend going with a guide if you don’t speak Indonesian yourself – the depth of experience is all the more enjoyable!

The small structures are symbolic of male (the umbrella) and female (the mini-house). Large stones are used for animal and food sacrifices, while the assembly of stones is like a central, official meeting point. All are involved in honoring and thanking the ancestors.

Textiles for sale, hung beneath the remains of sacrificed animals.

To learn more about Bena and its ancestral shrines, check out this website.

Come back next week to catch some surf with komodo dragons!

What’s for Sale?

I always learn a lot from my students – they teach me about themselves, their culture, and life. A few weeks ago, I posted about some of my students’ hopes and dreams. This week, I want to share a little something different.

Towards the end of this past school year, Bu Isna and I asked our students to make advertisements in English. They could choose to advertise anything they wished, but we encouraged them to think about the kinds of things they see and use in their daily life. None of you will be surprised that a group of 13 year olds came up with a lot of food and many cellphones. But the kinds of food and other items also struck me as so very Indonesian. Here are some of the best…

“Tahu” is tofu…guess we should have covered that in class. Here you can see two advertisements for tofu and one for fried bananas – staples of Indonesian snack food.

Here are some more favorite foods – ice cream and bakso meatballs. And what’s Indonesia without a healthy serving of some fresh fruit?

Every day before school, my students read from the Qur’an, so these advertisements seem particularly useful.

Finally, every successful student needs a good English dictionary and a sturdy pair of shoes.

Get it, Girl!

Back in April I had the privilege of joining an IGLOW Camp – Indonesian Girls Leading Our World. GLOW camps take place in many Peace Corps countries, and are a favorite project among volunteers here in Indonesia. IGLOW and IBRO (Indonesian Boys Respecting Others) camps have been held across Java, and we volunteers are pretty proud of them. Camps usually include games and activities that encourage teamwork, motivational speakers who inspire leadership, informational sessions on diversity and health, and a good helping of fun, bonding activities like talent shows and crafts. These camps are a great opportunity for girls and boys to break out of their daily routines and dream of more successful, empowered, and globally aware futures. Although I was just a tag along, jumping in to lead a few games, the volunteers of Madiun, Magetan, and Ponorogo did an amazing job planning this mixed middle-and-high school weekend leadership camp. To get a little glimpse into the work they did (and a cameo of yours truly), check out the video below!

Fruit of the Month: Salak

Later this month I will be going in search of komodo dragons (posts to come!), so it seems only fitting that our featured fruit of the month be something best described as reptilian.

Salak, better known in English as “snake fruit,” has a scaly, brown skin, and really looks like something that belongs in Jurassic Park. Salak fruit is about the size of a fig, and the skin peals off easily to reveal three segments of white fruit that rather resemble overgrown garlic cloves (sorry, no baby dinosaurs). It is native to Indonesia, and some of the best salak fruit comes from Bali and right here on Java.

I tried salak fruit my very first day in Indonesia. I remember another trainee asking me what it tasted like. “Like pineapple and nail polish remover,” I replied. Safe to say, I wasn’t the biggest fan after the first bite. But, like many things in life, salak grew on me. It still has an astringent, pineapple-y taste, but it’s sweet, refreshing, crunchy, and oddly satisfying. As the saying goes, don’t judge a fruit by its scales.

The face of a helpless fruit addict.